A Heavy Heart

It’s been a little over a year since we made Costa Rica our full-time home, since we traded snow and seasons for the lushness of the Osa Peninsula and settled into our little piece of paradise in Uvita.

And living here—really living here, not just visiting—has brought a lot into focus about what it means to make a life in a foreign country.

Today, my heart is heavy.

There are days when paradise feels exactly like paradise. And then there are days when the cracks become impossible to ignore.

This morning, I opened my email to find an announcement from OsaInformacion about the opening of the new C-COT-type detention center being built here.

It literally made me sick.

It’s no secret how I feel about the regime that has taken control of so many aspects of life in the United States. And now, watching even the ideas and policies of that regime begin to reach into the political landscape here in Costa Rica is frightening.

I can’t help but wonder:

Who will they round up?
What will be next?
When does it become about us?
Will there be quotas?
Will fear become a tool here, too?
Will the lawlessness and division we’ve watched consume so much of the United States find its way here?

I know Costa Rica is its own country. I know its politics, its problems, and its history are uniquely Costa Rican.

But I also know how quickly things can change.

And then there are the things happening right in our own sleepy little canton.

Four random drive-by shootings in less than two weeks.

Bandits in the National Marine Park beating and robbing tourists.

And turtle eggs being poached right under our noses, even as the dedicated people from the turtle rescue walk the beaches twice a day trying desperately to protect them.

They save two or three nests, and someone comes along and steals another.

It is infuriating.

Because all around us is the Costa Rica we fell in love with.

Bright-colored birds flashing through the trees.
Huge iguanas sunning themselves.
Monkeys swinging through the canopy.
The ocean.
The mountains.
The rain.
The thunder and lightning rolling across the jungle.

Our little paradise still exists.

But then there is the human factor.

And sometimes, that’s the hardest part.

And honestly?

Today, even the humidity has gotten to me.

We really believed we would adapt to it. We thought our bodies would eventually acclimate, that eventually we would stop noticing the relentless dampness hanging in the air.

But after more than a year, we still find ourselves thinking twice about going outside. Thinking about whether an event is worth getting drenched in sweat for. Looking for shade. Looking for air conditioning. Looking for somewhere—anywhere—where your skin doesn’t feel perpetually wet.

There is no escaping it.

Of course, there are the mountains.

But the mountains come with their own shortcomings.

So today I’m just beside myself.

Not because I suddenly hate Costa Rica.

I don’t.

Not because the year here has been a failure.

It hasn’t.

Quite the opposite.

This year has taught us more than we could have learned from a dozen vacations. It has shown us what we truly need, what we can live without, what we value, and what we are unwilling to compromise.

And maybe that’s the lesson.

Life deals us a hand of cards.

Sometimes we look at that hand and decide we simply don’t want to play it.

And that is one of the beautiful freedoms of retirement.

We don’t have to stay somewhere because we have to.

We don’t have to convince ourselves that something is working when it isn’t.

We don’t have to spend the rest of our lives defending a decision simply because we once made it.

We can change our minds.

We can pack our bags.

We can go.

The wanderlust that has driven us for so many years is still alive and kicking. Maybe even more so now.

And somewhere along this journey, we’ve learned something else:

Stuff is exactly that. Stuff.

Our house is our home because we made it our home.

Just like our two vans were homes.

Just like our “home in the hill” in Bountiful was a home.

The walls don’t make the home.

The address doesn’t make the home.

We do.

Our love, our memories, our laughter, our photographs, our ridiculous collections of things we’ve picked up along the way. The meals we cook. The music we play. The dogs underfoot. The stories we’ve accumulated.

That can be created anywhere.

So today, with a very heavy heart, I am beginning to pack up our little life.

Not because we failed.

Not because Costa Rica failed us.

But because sometimes you have to be honest enough to recognize when the life you’re living isn’t quite the life you want anymore.

And maybe that’s okay.

Maybe paradise isn’t a place.

Maybe it’s simply the place where the next chapter begins.

So here we go again.

Another chapter.
Another road.
Another adventure.

And somewhere out there, waiting for us, is the next place we’ll turn a building into a home.

As the holiday season begins –

This Thanksgiving, we embrace gratitude for the calm we’ve built and compassion for those missing loved ones. Together, we honor the enduring bonds that transcend distance.

This year, Thanksgiving feels different.

It feels heavier… and somehow, more sacred.

Because while Chris and I wake up each morning surrounded by peace — free from the grinding stress that once sat on our shoulders — we know that so many others are carrying a very different weight right now.

A weight made of fear, of sudden goodbyes, of families torn apart by harsh policies and heartless raids. There are empty chairs at tables today not because of distance or choice, but because loved ones were taken, uprooted, scattered. Entire families are living with a quiet ache that never seems to lift.

Yet in the middle of all that heartbreak… there is still gratitude.

Chris and I are deeply, humbly thankful for the life we’ve been able to build here in Costa Rica — for the calm, the safety, the space to breathe again. And we’re just as grateful for the people who keep our hearts stitched together across countries: the friends who have become family here, and the loved ones in the States whose connection remains a steady, grounding presence.

We’re thankful for every message, every visit, every shared laugh across borders — reminders that love doesn’t weaken with distance; it grows stronger, more intentional, more cherished.

So today we’re holding two truths side by side: Gratitude for the peace we have… and compassion for those spending this holiday with pieces missing.

To everyone feeling that empty space at the table, that tug of worry, that longing for someone who should be here — you are not invisible. You are carried in the hearts of many.

May the days ahead bring comfort where there has been fear, hope where there has been loss, and reunions where there have been far too many separations.

My love and heartfelt wishes for a reflective holiday season.

Canyons and Deserts back Home in Utah

Can I start out by saying that my heart feels full when in the vast deserts of Utah. The grandeur is awe inspiring, the silence, deafening. The sun is warm on you skin in the cloud free azure blue skies that go on forever. The deep canyons, carved by wind, rain and the elements are like a sculpture’s best art. The spiral towers of molten type rock appear to ooze down the cliff faces, getting more narrow till one side meets the other in the depths of its rocky tomb. The great cottonwood and juniper, pinion pine and sage, seek shelter in the shadowy depths. If you sit patiently, you can see the prairie dogs, marmots, squirrels and chipmunks run along the layer of the cliff face. A crow breaks the silence with its caw and the swish of its wings as it shoots past us on the currents. A cool breeze slides along my cheek and gives me a shiver.

It’s our first outing with the new van. It’s a 2023 Winnebago Revel 4×4 on a Mercedes Sprinter chassis capable of traversing any terrain we can find, handling the washboard roads like a luxury vehicle but with the weight of a built out adventure van. The inside is cozy, fitted with all the amenities to keep us comfortable for our travel adventures to come.

Part of getting the new van was learning from our old van, SleepyTurtle. She was a fine build and was perfect for what we needed and especially traveling with Gandaulf, our old corgi. There were a few things missing, as we found out after 2.5 years living full time in her. She was built to withstand the worst rutted roads we found in Montana and Wyoming. She rarely had a rattle. She was built as a fair weather camping rig, without heat or AC, she had an inside composting toilet and an outside shower. There was plenty of counter space, we carried 50 gallons of water and had a ginormous fridge and high output stove, for outside cooking only. She was a great van! Now she and Gandaulf are gone.

Our new van, doesn’t have a name yet, but as we investigate her and outfit her to be home for perhaps the next year, one will come. Maybe some sort of warrior princess or a great explorer name, perhaps a docile creature of the desert or mountains. It will come.

We just finished our first house/pet sit in SLC and have taken a retreat to our favorite place, The Swell in central Utah’s San Rafael Desert. It’s a relatively short drive from SLC and sits at about 6,000 feet in elevation. The Good Water Rim Mountain bike single track trail sits adjacent to our camp. It’s a 6.8 mile trail that skirts the canyon rim and is quite technical although, and an easy ride to get the heart pumping.

Around our primitive camp, the sandy ground is a mauve color with stark greenish black, twisted bark, pinion pine and juniper trees standing against the brilliant blue sky. The layered sandstone revealed by the erosion of the sand, stand like castle walls at the top of an impenetrable hill. There is no sounds outside of the wind, birds and occasional passing vehicle.

It’s an oasis in the mad haste of life in the city. It’s a welcome respite from the last year of traveling in Europe and Asia. It calms the mind, lowers the blood pressure and can suck you away in a hypnotic trance if you sit and don’t think. A perfect spot for a meditation or just to day dream. Not a care in the world or a need to rush. Just silence, beauty and peace.