And in the end–Patagonia

And so we arrive at the quiet terminus of our northward journey—not with a grand finale, but with that soft, reflective stillness that comes when something beautiful has run its course.

What began on the Futaleufú River–unfolded into 875 kilometers of winding roads and wonder along the Carretera Austral, carrying us south to Puerto Río Tranquilo and then gently back north to Puerto Varas. But distance feels like such a small measure now. What we gathered along the way cannot be mapped in kilometers.

There were days when the sun broke through, spilling gold across jagged peaks and glacial rivers so impossibly turquoise they felt imagined. And then there were the rains—the long, steady Patagonian rains that blurred the edges of the world and pulled us inward. Yet even then, especially then, the landscape held its magic. Mist clung to the mountains like breath, waterfalls awakened everywhere at once, and the road ahead felt like a secret slowly revealing itself.

We were not without our small missteps—a tire with its slow leak interrupted our plans—but even that became part of the story. It led us, unexpectedly, into the warmth and generosity of strangers, into shared laughter and gestures that needed no translation. In those moments, Chile revealed itself not just in its landscapes, but in its people.

The road demanded something of us. It was good, yes—but never easy. It asked for patience, attention, humility. And in return, it offered glimpses into a life shaped by resilience. The places we stayed—simple, weathered, full of character—felt like quiet witnesses to generations who carved out existence in this wild and beautiful edge of the world.

We stumbled through Spanish, sometimes clumsily, sometimes triumphantly, and in doing so found connection. We met people who, for a moment, became part of our story. Some will remain only as flickers in memory—a shared meal, a passing conversation, a smile exchanged on the roadside. Others… perhaps we will meet again, somewhere unexpected, as travelers do.

Because that is the quiet truth we carry with us now—the world, vast as it seems, has a way of folding in on itself. Paths cross. Stories intertwine. And somewhere down another road, in another country, a familiar face may appear again like a gift.

And so we leave this stretch of Patagonia not as we arrived, but fuller—of wonder, of gratitude, of moments that will live on in the hidden corners of our minds and as a steady glow in our hearts.

Simply–Patagonia

We didn’t just arrive here—we earned it.

Our southward push along the Carretera Austral has finally brought us to the edge of how far we were willing to go. Not because the road ends, but because something in us said: this is enough… for now. Mile by mile, the signs had been stacking up—subtle at first, then undeniable—whispering that Puerto Río Tranquilo would be our turning point.

And then came yesterday’s drive.

Six hours that didn’t just pass—they pressed into us. 

The kind of hours where you feel small in the most humbling, awe-struck way. We are nothing more than passing specks in a landscape that feels eternal—mountains rising like walls of time, valleys carved by glaciers that were here long before us, rivers born from snowmelt rushing with quiet authority toward the sea.

Everywhere you look, something is falling—water spilling from impossible heights, cascading down cliffs as if the mountains themselves are unraveling. Around each blind curve, another scene steals your breath: trees clinging to landslide scars, their fallen kin scattered below like bones in the valley.

The rivers are unreal—turquoise, pale blue, glowing as if lit from within. They surge and twist, hurling themselves over edges, dissolving into mist that catches the light and becomes fleeting rainbows. Above it all, jagged spires of granite pierce the sky—entire cities of stone reaching upward, their snow-dusted peaks vanishing into thick, wandering clouds.

And then—just when you think the palette couldn’t deepen—autumn arrives. Reds. Golds. Entire hillsides set quietly on fire against the endless green of the forest. Open fields stretch out like a breath between heartbeats… only to be interrupted by mountains that shoot straight into the blue, unapologetic and immense.

And the road?

It doesn’t guide you—it tests you.

Sometimes smooth, often not, it coils through the land like a living thing. One moment you’re gliding, the next you’re gripping the wheel through mud thick enough to swallow tires. Hairpin turns come without warning. Massive trucks and buses take up more than their share of the road, forcing you to trust instinct over sight. And somehow, others fly past at impossible speeds, spraying mud and indifference in every direction.

So yes… this is where we stop.

Not because we can’t go further—but because we’ve seen enough to understand what this place is asking of us.

And still, we’ll turn around and do it all again.

Because that’s the thing about this journey—there’s one way in and out–it gets under your skin.

Along the way, it isn’t just the land that leaves a mark. It’s the people.

Like William and Anna, from Argentina. We met them at a lodge tucked deep along a fjord lake—so remote the outside world simply… disappeared. No signal. No distractions. Just water, mountains, and whoever happened to be there with you.

Dinner wasn’t really a choice—either the formal restaurant or the quieter bar. We chose the bar. That’s where we met Sebastián, the bartender who softened the edges of the place, and where William and Anna waved us over.

What started as shared space turned into shared stories—half English, half Spanish, all laughter. The kind of conversation that feels easy and rare at the same time. And just like that, by morning, they were gone. A fleeting connection, sealed in memory.

Patagonia has a way of doing that—giving you moments you can’t keep, only carry.

And then there’s the heat beneath all this ice.

Hot springs—unexpected, almost surreal in a land that feels carved from cold. The lodge itself existed because of them. Steam rising into crisp air, water pulled from deep within the earth, warmed by the same volcanic forces that shaped this entire region.

Some springs are nothing more than a hollow in the rocks, others feel like hidden sanctuaries—caves, pools, small cascades of warmth. You sink in, and for a moment, the cold, the road, the miles… they all dissolve.

It’s nature’s quiet kindness.

And all along this journey, we keep catching glimpses of other places we’ve known. A waterfall that feels like Iceland. Peaks that echo the Dolomites. Glaciers that pull us back to Alaska. Then suddenly, a stretch of land that could be the American Southwest, or a valley straight out of the Rockies.

It’s as if Patagonia holds fragments of the world—but refuses to be compared to any of it.

Eight hundred seventy-five kilometers. Roads that challenge you. Ferries that carry you. Landscapes that stay with you long after you’ve passed through them.

And now, we pause.

We exhale.

We loosen our grip on the wheel, uncurl fingers that didn’t realize how tightly they were holding on.

And we turn around… to do it all again.

Insanity?

Maybe.

But it feels a lot more like adventure.

It is time

I gaze into the glow of a blank screen,
listening to voices dripping venom,
men in masks spitting hate
as unseen puppeteers tug the strings…
violence dispensed like cheap candy,
their mouths snapping open
like machines built only to wound.

And yet
beyond that darkness,
the people gather.
They rise in quiet reverence,
a hush that holds more power
than any shouted threat.

I watch the monks
reach the end of their long walk,
a pilgrimage carved in bare feet and prayer,
a walk for peace
that has brushed against thousands of hearts
and left them trembling awake.

We stand with them…
hands clasped,
souls yearning,
hoping their gentle wisdom
might shift the tides,
open the eyes long sealed by fear,
send a wave of love
sweeping across a land
torn open by ignorance
and stitched with lies.

Our nation’s cloth
hangs shredded in the wind.
And still…
we hold the edges,
refusing to let it all come apart.

It is time to turn the page
before the snake slithers out
and consumes the fragile hope
we’ve just lifted from the hat.

Can hope rise above this?
Can peace be nurtured
in soil scorched by division?
Can its roots dig deep enough
to cradle the lost
as they stumble after false prophets
into the yawning abyss?

Can we survive this season?
Rebuild what was broken?
Learn again to love our neighbor
without trembling in our own doorway?

Can we silence the tidal wave of lies,
the loud, empty rhetoric
that poisons minds
and sells fear
to those desperate to belong
even if belonging means
bowing to power,
forsaking truth,
forgetting the dignity
of honest labor
and the humility of shared struggle?

Yes.
But only if we choose it.
Only if we step forward now…
not in rage,
but in courage.

Only if we admit
that change is not coming
unless we become it.

It is time.

Time to rise.
Time to rebuild.
Time to reclaim the heart
that beats beneath this fractured nation
and remind it
softly, fiercely
what it was made for:

Love.
Peace.
And one another.

May all beings suffering find and end to that suffering and peace. ☮️🕊️🙏🏼 J

A New Year — Setting Intention

I always thought that each New Year’s  Resolution I set would bring a new me. What exactly that looked like, I really never knew because I only ever did part of the footwork needed to become that “new me”. 

We left on the road now almost exactly 5.5 years ago. The New Year 2026 will be that milestone. In that time, I really feel like a lot of healing has occurred. I loved the traveling, it was dynamic and filled with so many experiences that kindled growth. Mostly, I believe that the oxidation of all parts of the body, caused by stress, was the hardest to undo and repair. It rears its ugly head in so many ways, both mentally and physically.  

So much has happened over this time of travel that would probably never have happened if we had stayed put in our comfort level. Not to say we are not spontaneous, and – in the minds of family and friends – probably a bit too reckless at times but we are growing a bit more reserved. I’ve said it before that travel allows the mind to become pliable again. Allows the body to be pushed to its limits and a bit beyond. It teaches you to get out of your self-centeredness and become more selfless. 

We’ve now been living in Costa Rica for 9 months and in our own place for 4 months. That’s the longest we’ve stayed put in one place since we left in 2020. I guess we set our first intention in life together back when we said someday we would live here. That intention set in motion all the preparations since have led up to the moment we bought our home here. In 1993, we first came to Costa Rica and fell in love with this tiny but vast country. 

With a place to become grounded once again, but with the gift of leisure now ours, this year we can not just make a New Year’s resolution, but set our intentions for the new year. More than I’m going to quit this or that, lose weight or eat better. More than empty words and promises that soon die away as the stress of life settles back in after giving it our best efforts. Ah – therein lies the difference. 

Setting intentions can now include seeing how we can achieve these in our new life. It can be not a self-defeating promise but an action-packed movement towards an outcome. We can work on our bodies and our minds by utilizing this leisure time gift as if it were the gift of life itself. We can set ourselves up to succeed and achieve with few hindrances. We have the tools and guidance available all around us here, and have tapped into the knowledge that exists here. In the humans, the nature, and the natural forces of the coming time of change in our universe. If there was ever a year to do it – this is the year. 

Is the Grass Really Greener?

It’s an absolutely stunning morning. A week before Christmas. The sun has risen above the mountains, drying out any hint of dampness left behind by the night’s rain. A slight breeze kisses my cheek, inviting me to awaken to the promise of this day. The soulful cry of the toucans drifts through the cool air, igniting joy in my heart and bringing a smile to my face. The day’s activities have already begun.

It’s been three months since we moved to Costa Rica. Every day brings something new – some good, some not so good – but everything offers a chance to learn. We are slowly settling in, and time slips away so easily here. Some days I sit quietly on the back patio, simply taking it all in. Other days are a flurry of activity – from Tai Chi and volunteering, to ferias and multiple shopping stops to gather what’s needed to prepare wonderful meals. And of course, there are beach days. It’s amazing how much time there is once you’ve stopped. Stopped working. Stopped traveling. Stopped worrying.

We move through phases of bliss and phases of WTF are we doing here?! 

This is a country of mixed messages. There are moments of total chill – when everything flows effortlessly, without a hitch. And then there are the moments marked by a lack of urgency or commitment to show up on time…if at all. The Tico people are wonderful; there is simply no rush. You can plan your entire day and watch as not one thing unfolds as expected. By day’s end, you may realize you’ve waited and waited, yet nothing has gotten done. It’s frustrating – mostly when we compare life here to life in the States. Every choice carries consequences, both good and bad. This choice was ours.

Then there are the funnies. It’s a bright, sunny day and the power blinks on and off several times within a couple of hours. It’s pouring rain – the power blinks again. This week there’s a leak in this water main line or that one, so sorry, the water will be off for a few hours – not for lack of water, mind you, there’s plenty of that. Huge green Iguanas choose our back deck for make-out sessions, then cool off in the pool afterward. Tiny spiders float endlessly from thing to thing, leaving us to walk through their strands face-first. Each morning I dust every piece of outdoor furniture, trying to stay ahead of yesterday’s web trails. Geckos poop all over everything leaving little mouse poos with white dots looking like an explanation point – guess they are making a statement. And of course, there’s the ongoing adventure of asking and answering in Spanish. 

The list goes on.

It’s the dry season now.

We shall see how green the grass stays.

A new beginning

Plant a garden, walk on the beach, listen to the new sounds of our home, all of these gifts have been given to us in this transition. Change is for once, welcome in our lives. Days are filled with sun and rain, the yin and yang of the mother. Sometimes this all feels so enormous, and at other times, so quaint. 

There’s a sense of anxiety, a little panic even, when we sit down at night, which comes early here, and look around at the little nest we are preparing for ourselves, realizing that we have stopped for a time. Longer than in the last 5+ years. Then we remind ourselves that this is not an ending, but a new beginning. A new jumping off point with a home to come back to. 

Travel is in our blood, period. As I’ve said before, it keeps life new. It invigorates our souls. It inspires and challenges us. It is not always easy but always worth it! This little pause will be a time of rejuvenation, healing and relaxation. We’ve seen so much of our tiny world in the last few years of life on the road. We’ve been around the globe, in the Northern hemisphere mainly, dipping down to and just below the equator a time or two. It’s time to explore the southern hemisphere and indulge in all that this part of the world has to offer. 

No, we are not done, not until we can no longer walk. Not until the breath no longer moves through us. Travel is in our blood, every inch and fiber of our beings. Even after this life expires, we will continue to travel on a different path. So stay tuned for more adventures. Laugh with us, cry with us, travel with us through our words and photos. Everyone is welcome! 

Moving on: Five years on the road

In a world such as we live in, it’s easy to become enveloped in the haste, waste, and turmoil. We are often overloaded with sound, visual violence and opinions spread out on WiFi, TV and podcasts. Social media fans the flames of whatever you choose to search for. 

We run around in belching cars and buses, squeeze into tubes of steel shot through tunnels underground like the voles we curse every spring. We jump into flimsy aluminum winged machines and are totally disconnected from the ground itself flung through the air to our next destination. We live in cement towers, scraping the sky, in little wooden boxes and climate controlled rooms. We walk on a foot of cement and steel below our feet. We wrap our feet in shoes and socks. Plug our ears with buds and bury our faces in our phones. 

We live in a place that chooses to treat symptoms instead of sorting through to the root cause of our ‘dis-ease’. 

STOP! Enough…we had to tell ourselves that this is not making us happy. We chose to become nomads. 

Over the last 5 years of travel, we have learned so much. Seen so much. Encountered people and cultures that have enveloped us in their embrace. We’ve managed to become part of and welcomed into strangers’ lives. We’ve given back to the people and embraced new languages, customs and experiences. We have “family” all over the world. Our lives are so much fuller and complete. But…it’s time to stop and get grounded again. To kick off our shoes and walk in the sand, swim in the ocean and streams, become an observer of the life around us rather than being immersed in the doing. Costa Rica has won our hearts.

Seeing a beautiful bird fly through the air, hearing the myriad of sounds that subtly stimulate the senses. Watching Mother Nature unleash her fury in a place built to take it and shake it off like water on a ducks back. Being in a place so alive, where much of living is done outdoors in the abundance of nature that surrounds us. It’s deeply healing to finally be grounded. Surrounded by like minded souls that feed each other rather than take. A place of serenity and deep seated balance with the life around us. A place devoid of the negative stimulation we are so accustomed to. 

I think we will find a new family here too. Awakening to a new way of life, new language, new sights and sounds.  Not as a traveler or tourist, but a place to call home. Today, five years to the day we started our nomadic life, we settle down and ground ourselves in a new home in Uvita, Costa Rica. 

Costa Rica has so much to give. Clean air, clean water, clean power, beautiful flora and fauna. Hell even some of the streets are paved in small towns. A country dedicated to wellness, environment and nature. A slower pace. People so friendly, my face hurts by the end of the day because everyone smiles! Everyone says hello and how are you, while standing still and waiting for your reply. There are no strangers here because once they notice your new, they want to help you in any way. Refreshing! 

New home in Uvita, Costa Rica

Casa Chica…our new Costa Rican home.

Costa Rican Wild

Another early morning. The torrential rains last night have cut down the humidity, for now. The birds are crying out to the world, its time to get up, in a cacophony of squeaks, chirps, screeches and sweet songs. The sun is climbing steadily up the backside of the jungle covered mountain in the background and the clouds are parting for her like sentient soldiers spreading a veil. A few pockets of mist cling to the verdant trees, adding eerie apparitions floating through the trees like water flowing around rocks in a river. There’s a hint of jasmine in the air. 

The days are filled with a flurry of activity early, as the humans try to beat the heat and humidity of the coming day. We scurry about, doing chores, getting those last staples at the stores, running off to work, cleaning up whatever the rains brought down from the trees last night. 

It’s a symbiotic relationship one develops with nature when living in Costa Rica. The fertile ground will grow anything and the jungle throws down a lot of things. Even we humans add to the growth with a seed tossed out while on a walk, an upset garbage can can be full of seeds from the copious amount of fruits and veggies we eat. Fresh and organic. There’s not much concern about spots and imperfections on our fruits, no dyes added to the fish or poultry. Beef is not a big thing here nor is cheese. Cheese, in all forms is a delicacy. Beef can run from tough to sublime depending on the region. 

Fruits and veggies grow like weeds here. It’s not uncommon to find squash plants growing on the side of the road or in a vacant field that has become a natural compost. Fruit trees are ‘fruitful’ and multiply if left unchecked. Most of these accidental plants become food for the vast variety of wildlife here. Birds, amphibians, mammals small and large, and the insects, all enjoy the bounty. 

Costa Rica is wild and wonderful. It’s harsh and gentle. It’s teaming with life. The vibe is one of calmness and a natural rhythm, a stasis between man and nature. A constant battle between water and land, plants and the tiny space one carves out to call home. A hidden world in the lush tropical forests and a world of wonderment. Someplace that we feel alive, small, and acknowledge the heavy weight of being a steward in a country with so much untamed beauty. 

Transitioning: A place to call home

When one transitions from van life back to living behind the four walls of a house, believe it or not, it takes quite a bit of adjusting. One might say there’s a bit of separation anxiety or grief. Why do I say that? Perhaps it’s something that can only be understood by someone who has experienced living for more than a month in a custom van. Allow me to explain.

We first moved into “SleepyTurtle”, our self-built Ford Transit, in June of 2020. We transitioned from aprox. 6,000 sq ft to about 40. Now that in itself was actually easier than you’d think. See, living in a van opens up your “home” to all the outdoors. Don’t like the scenery…move. Don’t like the weather… drive to a new location. Your overhead boils down to fuel, both propane and petrol, camp spots, water (in some countries), food, insurance (health/car and travel), repairs and maintenance of your rig and of course connectivity, be it cellphone, internet/WiFi, or satellite radio. Simple. 

Living in a van allows you freedom. 

Living in a van allows you solitude.

Living in a van allows you to connect with nature and like-minded people. Simple people. 

Living in a van there’s no agenda aside from what direction you’ll head, where will you spend Winter this year, Summer? 

Living in a van makes you conscientious of trash production, water and power usage. 

Nature becomes your front and back yards. Wether beach, mountain, lake or desert, it can all be yours for as long as you choose. Fancy another country for a few months, years? Go for it! You’re mobile!

In the last five years, we’ve owned and lived in 2 different vans. Each served a purpose geared to the trip ahead. “Willow” was built and enhanced for a trek to the Arctic Circle, Alaska, BC and Alberta Canada and finally South Dakota and all the way to the tip of Baja California Sur, Mexico. Willow performed like a champ and is now retired and will be put up for sale soon. We’ve now moved onto Costa Rica where we are AirBnBing it for the next while. 

So, back to transitioning. We now reside back inside. I remember the first night back in a walled building. I lie awake listening to the hum of the electricity, the sound of water and flushing toilets. The hiss of central AC and heating units. I missed the silence. 

There are the “comforts of home”, TV, WiFi (no longer isolated to brick and mortar), running water, a big fridge and ice cubes, climate control, clean hot showers, a plug on every wall, and beside every table and chair with an unlimited source of power. The price tag for such niceties is pricey and often requires a job or takes a big chunk out of the monthly budget, and takes a chunk of your freedom away. But every now and then, you feel the need to “nest”, meaning to settle down in one place for an extended period of time, or as Chris puts it, “a place to put your stuff…” of which we have little material things left. 

I’m currently sitting in my air conditioned room, looking outside. It looks beautiful but I am in a city. There’s no seeking silence out there only in here, with the hum of the mini-split, running water and TV. The transition is tough. The freedom of the road or a “place to put our stuff” and call home? Not all exploration can be done in a van I guess. A new chapter has begun for the chicas.