Category: Beech Bums

Living Abroad

A year of living in Costa Rica has a way of changing even the hardest of souls.


We arrived after spending a year traveling the world. From the emerald cliffs of Ireland to the ancient streets of Cyprus, and four unforgettable months wandering Southeast Asia, the world opened itself to us. New cultures. New foods. New languages. More importantly, we witnessed countless ways people live in harmony with their surroundings. It changed us long before we ever set foot in Costa Rica.

Now we find ourselves nestled in a country that is both ferociously wild and profoundly calming.


Living here has slowly melted away layers of stress. I might even say it has rewired our brains—teaching us to slow down, practice patience, and become comfortable doing…nothing at all. Somewhere along the way, the clutter in my mind began to disappear. The anger, the endless noise, the toxic thoughts I carried for far too long have quietly loosened their grip.


In their place are moments of remarkable clarity. Moments of overwhelming gratitude. Moments where the beauty around me brings tears to my eyes and softens my heart. There are times when my thoughts simply disappear, and I’m completely immersed in the present—the calls of the toucans, the chorus of frogs after the rain, the scent of the jungle, the rhythm of the ocean. No distractions. No urgency. Just pure, uncomplicated peace.

Of course, not everything is idyllic.
“Things” can be difficult to find. Convenience isn’t always convenient. Comfort, as we once defined it, isn’t guaranteed. The humidity can be relentless, and life rarely moves according to your schedule.


If your happiness depends on possessions, predictability, and recreating the life you left behind—this may not be the place for you.
But if you’re searching for peace, solitude, vibrant wildlife, lush forests, and a slower, more grounded way of living, Costa Rica just might be the perfect place to begin again.


Leave your worries at the airport.


Leave your stress at the airplane door.


Then take a deep breath…and jump in.


Moving abroad is always a gamble.


Then again, so is staying exactly where you are.


Life offers no guarantees. Death is the only certainty. Between those two truths lies a choice—to remain comfortable or to risk everything for a life that feels more fully lived.

For us, despite the obstacles we never saw coming, it has been the best gamble we’ve ever taken.

Pure Pura Vida

It’s another early morning in Costa Rica, only this time on the Caribbean side.

We drove nearly ten hours over two days to get here, winding our way through the pouring rain and over Cerro de la Muerte—one of the many steep, mountainous roads that carve through the country’s interior. It’s a route notorious for mudslides, fallen trees, and deadly crashes. Massive eighteen-wheelers barrel around blind curves, often straddling the center line, leaving little room for oncoming traffic. It is, to put it mildly, a nail-biter.

Still, we arrived safe and sound around four in the afternoon, just before darkness settled in.

Over the last few days, we’ve been exploring Costa Rica’s southern Caribbean coastline. We kayaked along a swollen mangrove river teeming with life, drifting quietly beneath overhanging branches while birds called from the canopy above. After nearly a year of living here, we’ve begun to notice the things most tourists miss. We’ve trekked through rainforests, wandered coastal jungles, and learned that sometimes the greatest lessons come from simply sitting still. Even our own backyard has become a classroom, revealing new creatures and rhythms of life we once overlooked.

Our first night in the condo brought a torrential downpour so intense it sounded as though we had been transported beneath a roaring waterfall. Lying in bed, we were convinced we’d wake to find the first floor submerged beneath muddy floodwaters. But Costa Rica has a remarkable way of absorbing what the sky delivers. By dawn, the water had vanished, as if the earth itself had quietly sorted everything out while we slept.

We’ve spent our days bobbing in the Caribbean Sea. The waves here are gentle, lazily lapping against the shore. The water is warm and welcoming, inviting you to linger a little longer. The beaches themselves are often just a narrow ribbon of sand pressed between the sea and the jungle, which tumbles right to the water’s edge. The guttural chorus of howler monkeys echoes through the trees while macaws and other tropical birds flash overhead in bursts of color and sound.

The Caribbean side of Costa Rica moves to a different rhythm. Influenced by Jamaican and Afro-Caribbean culture, the atmosphere here feels distinct from the rest of the country. Many homes are simple, single-story cement structures with glassless windows, loosely fitting doors, and corrugated tin roofs that magnify the seasonal rains. During a proper rainstorm, conversation becomes nearly impossible. You simply sit in companionable silence while the rain does all the talking.

The people, too, embody a different kind of ease. They are warm, kind, and wonderfully laid-back. Here, pura vida takes on an even deeper meaning. It’s a greeting, a farewell, an expression of gratitude, and a wish for someone to enjoy the moment. Spoken with fervor and accompanied by a genuine smile, it feels less like a phrase and more like a way of being.

Today, a few friends are making the drive to join us, and tomorrow, a couple more will arrive. As I sit here listening to the morning awaken around me, I can’t help but think what a perfect place this is to gather—with good friends, warm seas, and the untamed beauty of Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast all around us.

Morning

A sliver of moon hangs in the inky black sky, like a sentinel awaiting its queen.

The mirror still water shines back its likeness in a wavy white streak.

A dark orange glow appears on the horizon, outlining the dark mountains painting them with a warm grey. 

As if to welcome in the rising sun, the moon sinks lower and the dawning light comes up to meet it in a fond embrace. 

More colors, the likes of which leaves a mind to wonder how this can be so. 

Pinks, yellows, greens, purples and blues all surround the land, making the water match the pastel and vivid pallet of the awakening sky. 

A small splash and a ripple spreads out in the four directions distorting the colors into a wave of rainbow light. 

The colors grow steadily more muted as the suns creeps closer to the horizon until her first tiny glimmer then a burst of warm light as she grabs the shimmery rope of light reflecting on the water and pulls herself free of her nightly bondage. 

All is quiet…tranquil…I am awash in the warm glow. 

I shake off the chill of night and bask in the morning light, welcoming the day. 

Rain and Rejuvenation

I’m sitting here on my patio watching the rain come down—again. We’ve had a ton of rain since Hurricane Melissa first appeared as a blip in the Caribbean. It must be true that October is the rainiest month in Costa Rica. We’ve had over twenty inches of rain this week, and more is falling.

And let me tell you—it knows how to rain here. It’s never just a “passing shower.” Back in Utah, we’d call these “gully washers.” For example, our pool’s water level usually sits about six inches below the lip, but last night, after just two hours of rain, it reached the overflow drain. For the next four hours, the drain couldn’t keep up, so I had to pull the cover off to let the water escape before it spilled over. Our pool is about eighteen feet long and twelve feet wide. I’m no mathematician, but that’s a lot of water.

Why did I mention Melissa?

Part of learning to live in a new country is learning its weather. We don’t have regular TV here, so most of our information and alerts come through WhatsApp. I saw a question recently posed to a local meteorologist: “If the hurricane is in the Caribbean, why is the Pacific coast getting high tide surges and flooding—while it’s sunny on the Caribbean side?”

Here’s where it gets a little nerdy. A hurricane is a living, breathing, seething wonder of nature. It pulls energy from all around it—even thousands of miles away. Just off the Pacific coast of Central America sits the Intertropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ), which holds an immense amount of humidity—a marine layer of warm, moist air. The hurricane literally pulls that ITCZ over the nearby countries, where it becomes supercharged by local weather patterns. The result? Torrential rain that can last all day.

During a “normal” rain, you can feel the humidity rising. The air gets heavy and oppressive. It’s no wonder everything here grows so fast, so big, and so green.

This week, we’ve also begun a new path toward better health—a change in diet, shifting old habits, and replacing them with more holistic practices. We’ve started giving back to our small community by volunteering and joining in the local energy and vibe. We’ve taken up Tai Chi, sound healing, and slow forms of yoga and breathing.

Today, I attended a “Morning Melt: Cacao and Devotional Singing Ceremony” at a local shop here in Uvita. There’s always some class or workshop on wellness, spirituality, or healing happening here. It’s about getting well—not just treating symptoms.

We eat fresh produce from the farmers market, grass-fed meats, and organic everything. We know where our food comes from—nothing is trucked in from far away. If it’s in season, we get it fresh. It all adds up to our main reason for moving here.

Here, in Costa Rica, we just might become young and spry again.

A new beginning

Plant a garden, walk on the beach, listen to the new sounds of our home, all of these gifts have been given to us in this transition. Change is for once, welcome in our lives. Days are filled with sun and rain, the yin and yang of the mother. Sometimes this all feels so enormous, and at other times, so quaint. 

There’s a sense of anxiety, a little panic even, when we sit down at night, which comes early here, and look around at the little nest we are preparing for ourselves, realizing that we have stopped for a time. Longer than in the last 5+ years. Then we remind ourselves that this is not an ending, but a new beginning. A new jumping off point with a home to come back to. 

Travel is in our blood, period. As I’ve said before, it keeps life new. It invigorates our souls. It inspires and challenges us. It is not always easy but always worth it! This little pause will be a time of rejuvenation, healing and relaxation. We’ve seen so much of our tiny world in the last few years of life on the road. We’ve been around the globe, in the Northern hemisphere mainly, dipping down to and just below the equator a time or two. It’s time to explore the southern hemisphere and indulge in all that this part of the world has to offer. 

No, we are not done, not until we can no longer walk. Not until the breath no longer moves through us. Travel is in our blood, every inch and fiber of our beings. Even after this life expires, we will continue to travel on a different path. So stay tuned for more adventures. Laugh with us, cry with us, travel with us through our words and photos. Everyone is welcome! 

New home in Uvita, Costa Rica

Casa Chica…our new Costa Rican home.

Transitioning: A place to call home

When one transitions from van life back to living behind the four walls of a house, believe it or not, it takes quite a bit of adjusting. One might say there’s a bit of separation anxiety or grief. Why do I say that? Perhaps it’s something that can only be understood by someone who has experienced living for more than a month in a custom van. Allow me to explain.

We first moved into “SleepyTurtle”, our self-built Ford Transit, in June of 2020. We transitioned from aprox. 6,000 sq ft to about 40. Now that in itself was actually easier than you’d think. See, living in a van opens up your “home” to all the outdoors. Don’t like the scenery…move. Don’t like the weather… drive to a new location. Your overhead boils down to fuel, both propane and petrol, camp spots, water (in some countries), food, insurance (health/car and travel), repairs and maintenance of your rig and of course connectivity, be it cellphone, internet/WiFi, or satellite radio. Simple. 

Living in a van allows you freedom. 

Living in a van allows you solitude.

Living in a van allows you to connect with nature and like-minded people. Simple people. 

Living in a van there’s no agenda aside from what direction you’ll head, where will you spend Winter this year, Summer? 

Living in a van makes you conscientious of trash production, water and power usage. 

Nature becomes your front and back yards. Wether beach, mountain, lake or desert, it can all be yours for as long as you choose. Fancy another country for a few months, years? Go for it! You’re mobile!

In the last five years, we’ve owned and lived in 2 different vans. Each served a purpose geared to the trip ahead. “Willow” was built and enhanced for a trek to the Arctic Circle, Alaska, BC and Alberta Canada and finally South Dakota and all the way to the tip of Baja California Sur, Mexico. Willow performed like a champ and is now retired and will be put up for sale soon. We’ve now moved onto Costa Rica where we are AirBnBing it for the next while. 

So, back to transitioning. We now reside back inside. I remember the first night back in a walled building. I lie awake listening to the hum of the electricity, the sound of water and flushing toilets. The hiss of central AC and heating units. I missed the silence. 

There are the “comforts of home”, TV, WiFi (no longer isolated to brick and mortar), running water, a big fridge and ice cubes, climate control, clean hot showers, a plug on every wall, and beside every table and chair with an unlimited source of power. The price tag for such niceties is pricey and often requires a job or takes a big chunk out of the monthly budget, and takes a chunk of your freedom away. But every now and then, you feel the need to “nest”, meaning to settle down in one place for an extended period of time, or as Chris puts it, “a place to put your stuff…” of which we have little material things left. 

I’m currently sitting in my air conditioned room, looking outside. It looks beautiful but I am in a city. There’s no seeking silence out there only in here, with the hum of the mini-split, running water and TV. The transition is tough. The freedom of the road or a “place to put our stuff” and call home? Not all exploration can be done in a van I guess. A new chapter has begun for the chicas. 

Driving while gringo

We are booking it back to Salt Lake City. We are about 30 miles outside Mesquite Nevada and our camp for the night. 

Getting back into the FUSA was quite an experience. 

We left San Filipe after visiting with our new friends we met on our beach in Playa La Escondida. They had come down for Laurie’s birthday and happened upon the Hidden Bar, our little beach bar, open everyday except Monday and Thursday. We sat at the table beside them and started talking like old friends. I found out that she had owls as a spirit animal and finally I understood who I was making the owls for. We grabbed dinner with them and then took off the next day. 

It’s quite a slog all the way to the border from San Filipe in one day since the roads suck so bad. We pushed all the way to the border and arrived at around 1:30 or so. As was typical, there were no signs directing traffic so we cut into the double lane with a tall yellow curb preventing anyone from cutting in or out except at certain streets. The lanes were moving terribly slow and we remembered that we had global entry and that worked at the borders too. SO we got out of the slow lanes and went into the ACCESO lane. 

Well that was a mistake. 

So first three Mexicano Border guards desired to take a good look in the van, back utility boxes, bathroom, cabinets and then let us go. Next was the US border agents. It was then the mistake became clear. We were asked for our passports specifically. He said that since we decided to come down the wrong lane, we had to go through a secondary inspection. What? We informed him we had global entry and he said oh, well it’s too late now. We were directed into a stall, told to leave all electronics, including our watches and cellphones in the car and go sit in the office. We were told to open all the doors and hood. 

In this room were two rows of chairs, backs to the window so we couldn’t watch them. I sat on an end chair and watched anyway. I had brought back 2 large scallop shells and stuck them in the outside pockets of the trash-a-roo, in plain sight. The inspector asked about them, where they came from? I told him and he was pretty sure I wasn’t supposed to have them. The inspector got another inspector who allowed the shells and that was the end of it. Basically we were getting our hand smacked for being in the wrong lane. We were allowed to leave. 

A few learned driving habits, good ones, died hard after crossing. In Baja, we MUST come to a COMPLETE stop at all stop signs, and anticipate which crossroads had, or were supposed to have a stop. When coming up on some bad potholes, an accident, or just slowing traffic, the 4 way blinkers come on, signaling an abrupt change in speed. There is no texting and driving since some towns have an access lane for businesses and a thru lane for traffic just passing by. This can create some tricky maneuvering as any car can turn left across all lanes from the far right lanes. Essentially making it a 6 way stop. At anytime, solid lines, curves or coming up on a hill, any vehicle will pass you, and with skinny lanes and no shoulders, this can be quite hairy and not recommended for us Gringos who are used to wide lanes. There are so many others that are just wonky but serve their purpose in Baja. 

Well, we survived Baja once again. Traveling three months from top to southern tip and back again. We met new friends and caught up with longtime friends. We sat in the emptiness, created in one’s mind, while on a beach. Swam in the salty seas. Played upon the glassy bays with our paddle boards. Ate fresh caught fish, fresh veggies and fruits, and dabbled in new tasty treats while in Oaxaca. Time seemed to slow as we became alive with new experiences, like children in adult bodies, new discoveries fascinated us. Living with purpose, relaxing into a timeless existence. Accepting whatever came our way, without needing to change it as it unfolded. Living in the moment, not the past or future, just in the moment. 

Stirring of Spring

The breezes are warm, filled with the smell of warming earth
I noticed a small crocus poking its head from its slumber in the earth
Soon it’s soft purple face will open to drink in the sun
The hard ground softens
The days grow longer
The grey of winter is being dyed pale green as the trees begin to bud
The air fills with the sounds of the small birds that have so much to sing about
I lie in the grass
Gazing at the endless sky
I melt into my gaze
And then…
Into the very ground that supports me
We are ONE
I feel the spirit of the mother course through my veins
She beats in my heart
My breathe becomes the wind itself
A sense of being
Of existing
Of love
We are ONE

The Days of Our Lives

Our days start at sunrise in Bahia Conception as the morning light shines in on my open back doors. On this cool dewy morning I wake to smell coffee and the wet air then I stretch to greet the new day. I open my eyes and take in the sunrise. An unusual sight greets me this morning. A huge cloud bank, tightly condensed on the water and up against the mountains that outline the bay. A few obscure paddle craft dot the horizon, enveloped in the thick fog bank, as the sun begins its ascent into the morning sky turning all the dew drops into small diamonds. 

The day was only just beginning with the unusual fog, calm bay and absolutely still air heavy in dew. 

A pod of 50-60 dolphins swim from one side of the bay to the other. The little dolphins enjoy jumping and I hear giggles from the campers gathered on the beach watching the folly.  They shout and point out their location to the paddle craft in the water joining their migration across the open bay. 

Yesterday was also an unusually calm day with no wind until very late in the afternoon. Again the dolphins passed by but, to our surprise, two small whales appeared. Probably a fin or pilot whale but don’t let that spoil the fun.  On a paddle board, they are massive, thrilling, and a bit un-nerving as they swam within 50 feet or so from my paddle board.  My little kid screeched with joy and the older me pulled back the enthusiasm to a safe distance. 

It’s not only the mornings that bring us joy here at Playa La Escondida. The moon disappears from the sky as it makes its nightly voyage. Once the gang goes to sleep, which is usually by 9pm, the beach is warily quiet and dark. Looking into the water, allowing a minute for the eyes to adjust, it happens. Bioluminescents!! It’s like seeing a million fireflies all up and down the beach at the water’s edge. Green diamonds and a slash of blue and pink as you drag your paddle through the water. In the jet black of night, with a canopy of stars reflecting on the still water, it’s an otherworldly sight. In the blackness comes the “poof” of a whales blowhole as it exhales. All the sudden you realize how small you are in the scene of things and at that exact moment, standing in the vastness of the stars, you feel like you are somehow integrated into it all.