Rapid Changes

Today I woke up to 41 degrees in the van…who knows what it is outside. With everything we need in our little capsule of steel and rubber, there’s no big rush to go outside and find out. 

The sun is making its way into the sky, creeping slowly from behind the snow capped peeks, but has yet to shine on the opposing peeks across the river valley. 

Our camp last night was right beside the Matanuska River, surrounded by Alders, sporting their new yellow fall colors, Drayas, also in showy white tops, and Fireweed that has lost its towers of red flowers and turned to tangled white silky seedpods. The mountains surrounding this valley are topped with snow from the thunder storms 2 nights ago, accenting the harsh, craggy peeks. 

Yesterday, we drove up from Ninilchik to the Russian River Ferry crossing and joined the throngs of fisher people hoping to catch a nice coho salmon, or at least hook into one of the giant red sockeye on the Kenai River. These fish are huge! As your standing in the water, these fish are lined up, heading upstream. Every now and then, one will breech the surface slowly or jump out of the river all together. With your concentration on your line and indicator, this is quite alarming at first, but soon becomes the norm and you settle in to the rhythm of casting. 

It’s time to begin our month long procession east then south, out of Alaska, into Canada, and finally, the lower 48. Time to say good-bye to the wildness of this beautiful land, where it is easy to forget your worries, clear your mind, and refresh your inner most being. To the fresh, crisp, cool air, the bears, moose, squirrels, seagulls ravens and bald eagles, all etched firmly into my mind, a sorrowful good-bye. A fond farewell to the mountains and glaciers, turquoise rivers and milky white glacial streams and waterfalls, thousands of lakes and fiords. To leave behind the thousands of miles of pot-holed, wavy, and frost heaved roads of dirt and tar. 

Although the journey has not ended just yet…we’ve traveled almost 6,000 miles since Salt Lake City. We’ve driven on almost every road in Alaska, been from the Continental divide (Antigun Pass) to Lands End (Homer). We’ve traveled by ferry along the Inside Passage between Juneau, Skagway and Haines. Took a wild ride down the Tatshinini and Alsek Rivers, played with icebergs and bergy-bits. We’ve had our share of bear encounters, some too close for comfort. I’d say it’s been a wild and encompassing ride for sure with still more to come. 

Bug Nets and Bug Spray

It’s one thing everyone knows about Alaska, there are mosquitoes and all sorts of things that want to suck your blood. I’m here to tell you it can go either way…one day swarmed, the next not a single mozie. There are 22 different types of mosquitoes in this region of the world. These vicious little bugs come in all shapes and sizes and if we add in little black and brown biting flies, well the game is on!

It goes like this…you find a camp spot, look out or just go for a hike, you step out into one of the three climate zones here…wet and sprinkles, dry and overcast, or sun shine and warm, within a minute the dinner bell has rung, humans are on the menu. Within 5 minutes you feel like you are crawling with bugs as these little and not so little insects begin to swarm in dizzying numbers, attacking any exposed skin. The largest mosquitoes don’t bother to find skin. Their little saws-all proboscis can scissor its way through a couple layers.

Soon the constant buzzing and slapping and scratching becomes maddening. Out comes the bug spray, at least a 100 DEET as nothing else even phases these little buggers. You feel slightly more invincible. Crack open a beer and settle in to enjoy the beautiful vistas. Suddenly, like an advancing army, another swarm envelopes you. You stand up, looking like a broken windmill, slapping and swatting at unseen foes. Now you run inside, making sure you were not followed by any marauding insect, and search high and low for the ultimate of all weapons in your bug arsenal…the dreaded head net.

Now, you’re prepared to vanquish your foe, or at least hide from their relentless pursuit of your tasty life blood. After an afternoon of respite from the incidious torment, it’s time for dinner. Hmm…head net or no head net…that is the question. The big plate of freshly prepared food looks delicious…so you slowly remove the net from your head and begin enjoying your food…until…floomp…you inhale a bug. Then one lands in your drink, another has taken to trying to molest your juicy steak with its proboscis. You feel your blood pressure rising and wish for rain. Ahhh…welcome to Alaska.